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Thread: Midwest Mountain Engineering (Clutch Lever)

  1. #501
    Administrator jeb's Avatar
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    Default Re: Midwest Mountain Engineering (Clutch Lever)

    Hey Steve, good on you for wanting to improve your design!

    Thanks again for hooking me up at the Theilman Trail Ride a couple of weeks ago. I've got 3 rides in on it now, and it does make clutching a lot easier on my bike. The Rekluse Core EXP plus the 280 spring really made the pull stiff, so the decrease in effort afforded by your lever is a very welcome thing.

    BTW, I used to live in Hastings. We'd come over to Prescott quite a bit, especially in the boat since the St. Croix was so much cleaner than the the "Muddy" Mississisppi. Nice town. Been a LONG time since I've been there, though.
    John B - jejb@att.net
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    19 250 TPI, 14 250XCW Six Days, The Torch (06 300XCW KTMtalk magazine bike), 98 125EXC
    Gone: 08 250XCW, 07 200XC, 06 300XCW, 04 250EXC, 03 450EXC, 01 400EXC, 99 250EXC, 98 380MXC, 98 200EXC
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  2. #502
    KTMTalk Member SirJono_777's Avatar
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    Default Re: Midwest Mountain Engineering (Clutch Lever)

    I tired to setup my clutch lever on my 14 350 excf last week. Having a bit of trouble. I warmed the bike up and went out to set the set screw.. What I found is that I don't need it.. The clutch seems to start engaging from right off the bars. How can that be right???

    Also when I bought it I was told I needed to order the kit for the 350 which came with a replacement pin for pushing the piston in.. Well on the 14 the stock pin seems to be sealed into the clutch housing under a rubber enclosure. I tried pulling on it with fingers and pliers, but stopped just short of ripping things apart. I was having to put an unusual amount of force on this thing and didn't want to break it.. So it had to stay in there, making the special 350 pin that came with the kit useless.

    So now I'm not sure what's correct, or what I'm doing wrong with the setup. For something pretty basic I sure am confused.
    🇨🇦 2009 300 XC-W - The Beast!
    🇦🇺 2014 350 EXC-F - Sold
    🇦🇺 2005 525 EXC - Sold

  3. #503
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    Default Re: Midwest Mountain Engineering (Clutch Lever)

    Steve, the front brake lever is on a '14 300xc-w. I had to modify the lever (drill a hole) so as to include the stock return spring. I also had to modify the stock handguard perch to allow the lever to pass through it as it is wider than the stock unit - this complaint is soon to be redundant when I remove the stock handguard perch alltogether. In addition, it would be nice to have greater ability to fine tune both levers reach with a tool free dial. The stock levers do this well. I am very much enjoying the clutch side (lhrb) lever, it definitely provides greater power. The range of adjustability is limited though, I have mine adjusted all the way in (closest to the bar) and it is just in reach. I do admittedly run my levers as far inboard on the bar as I can for index finger operation, which because of the bar shape, pushes the end of the lever out.

  4. #504
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    Default Re: Midwest Mountain Engineering (Clutch Lever)

    Quote Originally Posted by SirJono_777 View Post
    I tired to setup my clutch lever on my 14 350 excf last week. Having a bit of trouble. I warmed the bike up and went out to set the set screw.. What I found is that I don't need it.. The clutch seems to start engaging from right off the bars. How can that be right???

    Also when I bought it I was told I needed to order the kit for the 350 which came with a replacement pin for pushing the piston in.. Well on the 14 the stock pin seems to be sealed into the clutch housing under a rubber enclosure. I tried pulling on it with fingers and pliers, but stopped just short of ripping things apart. I was having to put an unusual amount of force on this thing and didn't want to break it.. So it had to stay in there, making the special 350 pin that came with the kit useless.

    So now I'm not sure what's correct, or what I'm doing wrong with the setup. For something pretty basic I sure am confused.
    SirJono,

    If your lever is working well with the stock piston rod that's great! The lever was designed to be pulled all the way to the bar and rest at about the same position as the stock lever when released. That is the full stroke of my lever.

    Some 350's (not all) require the custom piston rod. For some bikes the stock piston rod is too long. If you can't squeeze the clutch lever to the bar even with the setscrew removed then you need the shorter piston rod. The lever should be able to touch the hand grip. I provide the rod for all 350's since I can't tell which bike is going to need it. Its a 50/50 deal it seams. If you don't need it then just keep it for a spare. Its easy to remove the piston rod, see below:



    Call me any time day or night if you want to talk through the adjustments.

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    Steve

  5. #505
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    Default Re: Midwest Mountain Engineering (Clutch Lever)

    Quote Originally Posted by fatbully View Post
    Steve, the front brake lever is on a '14 300xc-w. I had to modify the lever (drill a hole) so as to include the stock return spring. I also had to modify the stock handguard perch to allow the lever to pass through it as it is wider than the stock unit - this complaint is soon to be redundant when I remove the stock handguard perch alltogether. In addition, it would be nice to have greater ability to fine tune both levers reach with a tool free dial. The stock levers do this well. I am very much enjoying the clutch side (lhrb) lever, it definitely provides greater power. The range of adjustability is limited though, I have mine adjusted all the way in (closest to the bar) and it is just in reach. I do admittedly run my levers as far inboard on the bar as I can for index finger operation, which because of the bar shape, pushes the end of the lever out.
    Thanks for the feedback FatBully!

    What happened is this. I bought an OEM Brembo brake lever from KTM for a 2014 300 to use to design the lever with. The assembly came with a conical spring under the piston rod boot. This spring is used to push the lever back against the brake light switch for those bikes that have brake lights. Off road bikes don't have the conical spring under the boot. Its not even shown in the parts fiche for any bike. Instead a different spring is used to push the lever in the opposite direction against the piston rod to remove the slop that would exist when the piston reaches the released position aginst the cylinder cir-clip. Without that spring there is a bit of slopy movement in the lever before it would reach the brake light switch as it continues to move out from the bar. So if you were to install a brake light switch for some reason, the lever would never activate the switch without the conical spring. The modification to the lever will be to create the detent that you created in yours. Then the stock return spring can be used on my lever to remove the sloppy movement. Fortunately the website is not updated yet with the new Brembo brake lever and I can make sure customers that need the extra detent get one put in their lever. Regarding the plastic hand guard, that is another change made to the 2014 plastic roost deflectors. The lever fits the 2013 guards just fine. I wish I could buy a new bike for every variation that comes out to head off these design differences. Here's hoping someday I can do that... Meanwhile I will be making a modification to the lever profile to make them fit the new and the old plastic. Another machine setup means the levers become a bit more expensive.

    Thanks for sharing your fix for the problems.

    Steve
    Last edited by Leverman; 10-10-2014 at 03:03 PM.

  6. #506
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    Default Re: Midwest Mountain Engineering (Clutch Lever)

    Anybody know if the Clutch Lever will interfere with the bulky blinker box on the 2010 450 EXC (2008-2011 450 EXC-USA)?
    2007 KTM 250 XCW & 2010 450 EXC

  7. #507
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    Default Re: Midwest Mountain Engineering (Clutch Lever)

    I just purchased both the clutch and brake lever for my 14 xcfw.

    I could use some suggestions on ergos with the levers.

    With the clutch lever, I brought the controls outboard more to be able to use it as a 2 finger clutch lever. I have a jacked up wrist and 1 finger pull just isn't in the cards.

    On the brake side, it seems like I only need one finger, and in many ways, the lever isn't even big enough for 2 fingers.

    Both brake and clutch controls came outboard enough that i am considering moving my start and kill switches to the other side of the controls to make more room to slide the controls out.

    Any suggestions from anyone on where to set these along the bars?

    thanks!
    matt bushore
    KTM 350 XCFW
    GAS GAS TXT300

  8. #508
    Administrator jeb's Avatar
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    Default Re: Midwest Mountain Engineering (Clutch Lever)

    I only use the clutch lever, but here's a recent picture of where mine sits:
    John B - jejb@att.net
    "Home of the free, because of the Brave"
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  9. #509
    KTMTalk Member TheBob_ZA's Avatar
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    Default Re: Midwest Mountain Engineering (Clutch Lever)

    Any hints for tuning the clutch lever on a KTM 300 based machine? Can't seem to tune the drag out of the system. Makes getting to neutral a real chore as well. Love the front brake lever though. Simply effortless stopping!
    2019 KTM 250 EXC TPI Six Days - K-Tech ORVS, S3 Head, JD 6x Surge Fuel Controller, VForce4, MME levers, Mitas tires and Tubliss

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  10. #510
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    Default Re: Midwest Mountain Engineering (Clutch Lever)

    Thanks Jeb- I'll play with sticking my start/kill inboard today after I get the wheels back on the bike. Both your controls are further outboard than mine by about an 3/4" I think.
    matt bushore
    KTM 350 XCFW
    GAS GAS TXT300

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