Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: Clutch Bleeding w/ Midwest Mountain Eng. Lever (Headache saver)

  1. #1

    Default

    I just wanted to share some knowledge that I came by the hard way so that others can save themselves some time and frustration. If you are going to bleed the clutch master and slave you will need to remove the Midwest Mountain Engineering lever, this lever does not allow the plunger in the master to completely retract even with the allen screw adjuster backed all the way out. If the plunger is not completely retracted it's impossible to back bleed the system which is the only way to get the air out of the system. I ended up removing the lever back bleeding the system and then reinstalled the stock lever to bleed it from the top. Bleeding this hydraulic system should be about a 20 minute job that took me about 3 hours. Hope this helps somebody out.

  2.    Sponsored Links



    LOGIN AND CLICK THE SHOP ONLINE LINK FOR THE DISCOUNT


  3. #2

    Default

    Interesting. Mine retracts all the way with it on. I had to make adjustments to keep it from rattling (after plunger retracted, the lever would go even further out).

    Do you have Brembo or Magura unit?
    Jason

    2009 200 XC

    Northern Colorado Trail Riders (NCTR.net)
    Klim Technical Riding Gear
    Maine Root Handcrafted Beverages
    Retail Resource Group
    Primus Real Estate Services

  4. #3

    Default

    Mine is a brembo master. I guess there are two adjustments on these levers and I don't think I tried dialing in the reach adjustment all the way, I bet with that screwed all the way into the lever that the plunger will come completely out of the stroke.

  5. #4

    Default

    It is always easier to bleed without any brand of lever on place, its the only way you can get a full stroke, remove lever and pump with an allen key, screwdriver, small punch anything. same with the brakes front and rear.
    YZ250F, 12 200SX, 16 Yamahammer YZ250X, Honda CRF450R , 15 200XCW, 10 YZ250, FJR1300, HD, DRZ400

  6. #5

    Default

    I went through a similar situation with an aftermarket lever on my front brake.

    The lever needs at least some free play so that the piston will be able to fully retract.

    If it isn't able to release fully, there is a small orifice in the master cylinder that will remain blocked and pressure will build up in the system while in use. It will also make it impossible to bleed.

    In my case, pressure in my front brake built up until it locked up and caused me a scary crash and a couple of ruined riding days.

    I wound up rebuilding the whole system and going through a lot of brake fluid and head scratching before I figured out it was the lever. It had a manufacturing defect that wouldn't allow the piston to release even with the adjuster backed completely out. Problem solved immediately when I re-installed the stock one.
    2018 250 XC-W
    2010 300 XC

Similar Threads

  1. Midwest Mountain Engineering (Clutch Lever)
    By JSS in forum Product Reviews
    Replies: 676
    Last Post: 05-26-2020, 09:23 AM
  2. Midwest Mountain Lever on 2012 350 EXC-F ()
    By GreatPumkin in forum 4 Stroke KTMs - 2005.5 to Current, 250cc to 500cc
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 05-27-2012, 10:09 PM
  3. ASV vs Midwest Mountain Lever ()
    By maxamillion125 in forum General Discussion (PUBLIC)
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 03-30-2012, 12:45 PM
  4. Midwest Mountain Clutch Lever (Brembo or Magura?)
    By LeonartheInsane in forum 2 Stroke KTMs
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 03-03-2012, 07:21 PM
  5. Bleeding headache (sx200 hydraulic clutch...)
    By Screamn200 in forum 2 Stroke KTMs
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 09-13-2009, 05:29 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •