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Thread: STIC jetting thread:

  1. #1461
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    Default Re: STIC jetting thread:

    Quote Originally Posted by Slightly Amature View Post
    I'm at 4 turns out on the air screw, elevation 0, very humid environment.
    The bike is running amazing. Bottom end is almost zero burble (very tolerable) I have an 8 slide on the way to see what that does.
    I had a barely perceptible burble/hesitation with the #7 slide. Based on one of JD's posts, I installed the #8 slide and this has cleared up the off-idle to 1/8 opening throttle response.

    I think it is worth mentioning that it is important to change one variable at a time with the STIC. Having jetted many Keihin carbs successfully, jetting can be a little counter-intuitive with the STIC. Even though I approach jetting a stock Keihin in the same manner, I think it is more important with the STIC, so that you have an idea of how each change affects the power delivery and jetting circuits. For example, changing the main jet will have a much greater affect on smaller throttle openings with the STIC vs the stock needle jet/emulsion tube.

    Thanks again to George and James Dean for the tuning advice.

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  3. #1462
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    Default Re: STIC jetting thread:

    Newsletter # 20

    There are significant other problems that affect how your recreational vehicles perform, here is a list of some of those items that are often overlooked and can cause you to chase the wrong problems. After you install an aftermarket part, and you still have a problem, do not condemn the aftermarket parts because it did not cure your problems, be sure to look further into the issue. For the record, we endorse engine builders, the aftermarket manufactures, that make exhaust systems, heads, power jets, wings, reed cages, carburetors, tuning kits, and other aftermarket parts. Here are some problems we have found in the recent years.

    (1): Slide and needle: (A): High, low, idle, erratic fluctuating inconsistent idle, (B): slide will not close, not enough free play. (C): Cable retainer not in groove will prevent slide from opening 100%.

    (A): This issue is hardly ever checked, and that is a worm cable retainer (the hex piece that holds the needle in place and provides a method to attach the cable to the slide). Make sure there is not excessive up and down movement of the needle (.001 to .003”) should be a maximum up and down movement after the hex end is tighten down. This is a major problem. Too much clearance in this area will cause inconsistent idle and erratic acceleration.

    (B): Before installing the carburetor, and with cable installed, check the movement of the slide for full open and full close. Often times the carburetor is installed first and then the cable and retainer is installed last; this is a mistake, also make sure the cable is not bound and is free of movement when the steering is turned full left and right.

    (C): If the cable retainer (white clip) is not in the nut groove this may prevent the slide from full opening.

    (2): Pre-ignition: insufficient clearance between piston and head; this could be insufficient deck clearance (top of piston to top of cylinder). Insufficient clearance between piston and head squish band. STIC recommends a minimum of .050” clearance, other head manufactures may have their own recommendations. If you have installed a big bore kit, or an overbore piston make sure the cylinder diameter matches the head chamber diameter. When installing a new cylinder base gasket make sure to check the piston to head clearance, if you use a thinner gasket this could close up the squish clearance.

    (3): There are many other problems that can affect the engines performance, restricted gas cap vent, gas line kinked, improper vent line routing. We are preparing a video in the future that will show methods and procedures to check the many problems that will affect your engine, if you can contribute to this post we will include your suggestions in our video, thank you, hope this helps.
    Last edited by STIC Fuel Systems; Today at 12:05 PM.

  4. #1463
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    Default Re: STIC jetting thread:

    Quote Originally Posted by STIC Fuel Systems View Post

    If you can contribute to this post we will include your suggestions in our video, thank you, hope this helps.
    George, with regards to the vent hoses I know that you don't think that any of them should be routed into the airbox but a good mod is to route two of them up under the tank to somewhere near the HT coil. you can also bend them back or at least point the ends downwards so that water does not go down them when cleaning the bike. The reason for the mod is to stop the engine dying when going through water deep enough to submerge the tubes if they are routed down around the swing arm. I found the engine will die within a second or two when they get submerged.

    Another mod is to rig up some heat shrink or rubber tube around the throttle cable where it enters the brass adjuster on the top of the carb, this stops water getting into the when cleaning the bike.

    Here is another one!...I found that when changing the main jet or pilot jet it is possible to do this without taking the carb off the bike, you just need to undo the 17mm bung at the bottom of the carb after twisting the carb on its inlet rubber. In order to do this you do need to remove the top of the carb and slide from the carb, you can just about get the allen bolts undone with a bit of care. In order not to kink the throttle cable when removing the slide pull the cable where it emerges from the side of the fuel tank near the headstock as you pull the slide out of the carb.
    Last edited by Sidecarbod; Today at 01:16 PM.

  5. #1464
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    Default Re: STIC jetting thread:

    Quote Originally Posted by Sidecarbod View Post
    George, with regards to the vent hoses I know that you don't think that any of them should be routed into the airbox but a good mod is to route two of them up under the tank to somewhere near the HT coil. you can also bend them back or at least point the ends downwards so that water does not go down them when cleaning the bike. The reason for the mod is to stop the engine dying when going through water deep enough to submerge the tubes if they are routed down around the swing arm. I found the engine will die within a second or two when they get submerged.

    Another mod is to rig up some heat shrink or rubber tube around the throttle cable where it enters the brass adjuster on the top of the carb, this stops water getting into the when cleaning the bike.

    Here is another one!...I found that when changing the main jet or pilot jet it is possible to do this without taking the carb off the bike, you just need to undo the 17mm bung at the bottom of the carb after twisting the carb on its inlet rubber. In order to do this you do need to remove the top of the carb and slide from the carb, you can just about get the allen bolts undone with a bit of care. In order not to kink the throttle cable when removing the slide pull the cable where it emerges from the side of the fuel tank near the headstock as you pull the slide out of the carb.
    Thank you, we will include these great tips in the Video.

  6. #1465
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    Default Re: STIC jetting thread:

    Quote Originally Posted by flying dutchman23 View Post
    I have been riding with the STIC in my GasGas 250 at 4,000'-7,500' and temps at the end of the ride in the mid-90's. Some of the climbs/downhills are long and rocky AF. Ie. a lot of technical terrain with the bike running at low RPMs and just off idle on the downhills. Bike pulls strong and I have not had issues with the bike loading up. My throttle application has changed somewhat to accommodate the STIC. Whereas I would previously be a gear lower and need to keep the bike in the meat of the mid-range, in rocky, dry, climbs I am able to run a gear higher and chug up the climbs with partial throttle openings, with more tractable power. So, not only do I feel like I have gained some power throughout the rev range, I feel like the power is more linear and usable. When the trails open up the bike is a screamer, pulls very hard, but again, very linear, and with more over rev. The air screw allows for enough adjustment throughout the ride as elevation and temperature changes throughout the day.

    2018 Gas Gas 250
    RK tech head cut for 100 octane
    JD STIC red needle clip position #2
    50 pilot
    185 main
    #8 Slide
    Air Screw 4-4.5 turns out

    I will be trying a 182 main on the next ride to evaluate.

    I am heading to CO/Utah at the end of the month and will be doing a few days of riding at 8'000 to 12,500'+. I will likely move the needle to clip position #1 and swap for the 180 main, per JD's jetting chart. I will have some more brass with me to swap if necessary. I will post up with my experience and jetting with the STIC at higher elevations.
    Flying dutchman; great posting keep us informed on your higher altitude ride.

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