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Thread: DIY AER48 Revalve

  1. #181

    Default Re: DIY AER48 Revalve

    What made mine better was swapping the 1st stage .15 shims for the equivalent .1 shims. Small but noticeable. I agree that the mid needs some work. I plan to address mine this winter but not sure yet what road to take. Cam.

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  3. #182

    Default Re: DIY AER48 Revalve

    yeah I'm going to change my base to all .1 shims as well but I have to order up a bunch of 30.1 shims since I don't have any in my stash. I figure I would find out what I need for the midvalve and order that at the same time.
    2018 KTM 300 XC
    V Force 4R Reeds
    RKTek Head
    38mm TMX Mikuni Carb
    Jetting: 460 mj, 42-75 #2, 27.5 pj
    4.0 Slide, New Block Gasket and Needle Valve O ring
    1000 feet asl

  4. #183

    Default Re: DIY AER48 Revalve

    Here are pictures of my valves as done by Corey at Protune.2019 300xc 210Lbs. with gear, A rider, North Georgia rocky terrain. This setup is much better in rocks(base layer of 3-5" rocks 15-20 MPH) than stock. Before this I tried Race Tech Gold valve but it was not as good as this even though it was a drastically different approach to valving compared to stock . Note Corey suggested changing the 11, 13, 15x.15 to .10 for even more softness which I have done but not yet tested. Hope this helps. What do you think?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Shims.jpg  
    Last edited by jgottsch; 01-14-2020 at 01:52 PM.
    2019 300XC
    2003 540 SX (gone)
    2008 300 XCW(gone)

  5. #184

    Default Re: DIY AER48 Revalve

    So I reached the limit of the stock midvalve. I ordered the racetech gold valves for the conversion. After 2 tries I have a decent setup for the forks. I like having the mid valve adjustable. There setup does use all .15 shims.Attachment 34779Attachment 34780
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails racetech.jpg   aer done.jpg   midvalve.jpg  
    Last edited by jeremy king; 01-14-2020 at 09:18 PM. Reason: pics

  6. #185

    Default Re: DIY AER48 Revalve

    What do you think caused that failure?
    2018 KTM 300 XC
    V Force 4R Reeds
    RKTek Head
    38mm TMX Mikuni Carb
    Jetting: 460 mj, 42-75 #2, 27.5 pj
    4.0 Slide, New Block Gasket and Needle Valve O ring
    1000 feet asl

  7. #186

    Default Re: DIY AER48 Revalve

    Quote Originally Posted by kjclark7 View Post
    What do you think caused that failure?
    Not sure it just felt mushy. I ordered the gold valves and saw it during the teardown. The forks have 40 hrs on them.

  8. #187

    Default Re: DIY AER48 Revalve

    I saw the same spiral wave shim failure on both of our 2 AER forks. My sons 150sx and my 350xcf. I noticed that I needed the rebound adjuster full in and there was still to much movement. Took it apart and the spiral wave shim was all bent up. We don't run the bleed shim on the compression side so maybe that effects the failure rate.

    I think a traditional mid with float is the way forward for the AER. I am working on this but my first attempt made use of a bent shim to provide spring pressure to the mid comp shims on a collar. This is all I had to work with when I saw the bend spiral shims. And my first attempt is way to stiff. Going to work with a proper spring and lighten the base more next time.

  9. #188

    Default Re: DIY AER48 Revalve

    What spring and collar are needed to make up the midvalve?
    2018 KTM 300 XC
    V Force 4R Reeds
    RKTek Head
    38mm TMX Mikuni Carb
    Jetting: 460 mj, 42-75 #2, 27.5 pj
    4.0 Slide, New Block Gasket and Needle Valve O ring
    1000 feet asl

  10. #189

    Default Re: DIY AER48 Revalve

    Just so people know (if you're following this but not the 'general' forum) - I have a kit available for this now. Converts stock midvalve to traditional shim stack with float.
    https://ktmtalk.com/showthread.php?5...-AER48-Q-amp-A

    7Kmachine.com
    Kenny Schipper
    7kmachine.com

  11. #190

    Default Re: DIY AER48 Revalve

    kjclark, you can buy all the parts from suspension direct. I am using a cupset, 6IDx8ODmmx5mm collar, a light spring with ID >12mm and a stack of 8IDx10OD shims to set float. Honestly for the money if you do not have a starting point or parts, you would not do bad to buy a kit from someone who already has a close shim stack. Like 7Kmachine or others that work with the stock piston and have a simple traditional approach like described above. Use as a starting point and fine tune to your preference.

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