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Thread: Adjusting a midvalve / basevalve for brutal repetitive HS pounding-

  1. #11
    KTMTalk Member kenpowell's Avatar
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    Default Re: Adjusting a midvalve / basevalve for brutal repetitive HS pounding-

    Rather than classify terrain as rocky lets just call it anything that produces a ride full of 'high speed' hits - rocks and roots both produce this action. Low-speed is usually defined by how the bike handles g-outs and rolling terrain. We often refer to the portion of the shim stack next to the piston as low-speed and the smaller shims toward the bottom of the stack as high-speed. But the truth is that ALL the shims control low-speed and ALL the shims control high-speed - they have to work together.
    Ken Powell
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    2012 KTM 300 XC with YZ SSS cartridges in WP forks - Sold to son-in-law on 31 October 2014 due to injury - still ride it occasionally
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    2003 KX125 with KDX220 motor & 2006 YZ250F SSS forks - added Rekluse EXP 3.0 designed for YZ125
    1979 Maico 250 Magnum - this bike is terrific!
    Many, many bikes until now...
    1963 Harley 175cc Scat - 1st motorcycle

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  3. #12

    Default Re: Adjusting a midvalve / basevalve for brutal repetitive HS pounding-

    Yeah oil viscosity change will make an amazing difference, Positive or negative, its like a full revalve.

    the thing is, with todays fully adjustable suspension, there's a lot more adjustability, with a decent valve stack.

    Its been 20 years since I mess with viscosity changes, Ive become stale in my old age.

    I had a 92 kx 250 I dropped to 2.5 weight fk oil, and increase oil about 10mm or so, on genral woods , you couldn't even feel a bump. Take that same suspension to a woophed out mx track with deep swappy brake bumps, and wasn't firm enough to high speed brake ,through brake bumps , it just kinda skipped through them Oophs, had to adjust that.

    1993 Honda 250, raised fork spring rate and went to 2.5 weight, and really made a pretty good fork, very reponsive. But without fully adjustable clickers, it would have never worked.

    1995 cr500 popped in 15 weight, and really good fork action over stock, so yeah pretty dramatic what a viscosity change can do, bad or good.

  4. #13

    Default Re: Adjusting a midvalve / basevalve for brutal repetitive HS pounding-

    Well.. I ordered some general stock shims and some of those mentioned “light” midvalve springs.
    I can get some 2.5 motul shock oil.. for a reasonable price of 10$ a liter. The HVI and maxima 3 were going for 20$ a liter.. seemed high, but I don’t know what the rest of you guys pay for oil..
    In a few weeks when all those bits and pieces get here, I will start messing around with things-
    I also ordered full PDS bushing kits and a shaft scraper seal.. for the 2 motos.
    Will send them off for new oil and bushings to start fresh out back as well.
    Was thinking of following the DCC recommendation of swapping the .15 / .25 shims while the gas is out and open-

  5. #14

    Default Re: Adjusting a midvalve / basevalve for brutal repetitive HS pounding-

    Just a quick follow up.. does any one have a real trick way of pulling the MV without draining the oil again and again for repetitive small adjustments? I couldn’t really think of a STD way.. but only kinda crazy ideas.. maybe have some type of custom cut stopper .. flip the whole unit, remove the bottom nut, install stopper/seal.. flip. Pull whole assy out of the top??? 🤔 Or am I making to big of a deal over nothing- Just dump oil and move on.. Just askin.. I don’t have a real nice stand or way to do it.. just some clamps and some milk crates with grooves cut in them to hold everything at a nice angle and some clean pots to catch the oil- I guess if I’m going to be doing this a lot more, I might invest in some more formal “clean” stands and holders.

  6. #15
    KTMTalk Member BERG650's Avatar
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    Default Re: Adjusting a midvalve / basevalve for brutal repetitive HS pounding-

    If you are looking for an easily way of adjusting MV float, I believe one of the aftemarket Xplor kits out there offer this feature, you can adjust float by simply turning an adjusting nut.
    2018 500 EXC-F Aussie/Euro Version
    Sooooo glad Euro map is standard...


    2013 300 EXC
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    To Finke and Back x 3


    04 300 EXC. MSC damper and 16 mm clamps
    .48s and PDS 7.
    13/49 and the "yellow spring"


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  7. #16
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    Default Re: Adjusting a midvalve / basevalve for brutal repetitive HS pounding-

    There are two companies that offer adjustable Mv float Krooztune is the only one that sells a kit google Krooztune or check the posts here.

  8. #17

    Default Re: Adjusting a midvalve / basevalve for brutal repetitive HS pounding-

    Quote Originally Posted by TCE View Post
    Well.. I ordered some general stock shims and some of those mentioned “light” midvalve springs.
    I can get some 2.5 motul shock oil.. for a reasonable price of 10$ a liter. The HVI and maxima 3 were going for 20$ a liter.. seemed high, but I don’t know what the rest of you guys pay for oil..
    In a few weeks when all those bits and pieces get here, I will start messing around with things-
    I also ordered full PDS bushing kits and a shaft scraper seal.. for the 2 motos.
    Will send them off for new oil and bushings to start fresh out back as well.
    Was thinking of following the DCC recommendation of swapping the .15 / .25 shims while the gas is out and open-
    assuming that you are on stock 2015 valving, going to softer midvalve will blow though quicker into the oil height.

    I test on similar terrian, 50 to 60mph down hill deep cross ruts, the valving is already very lenier., softening, will only have you quicker into the oil height , to hammer the teeth.

    stiffer spring rate makes a huge positive direction as an example cause you are able to drop oil height, in said condition.

    anyway, look forward to your test results.

    course im talking forks


    on the rear, for me is trying to get a HS speed setting that can take a real hard smack on a jump face, yet soft enough to work well everywhere else, seems like you can do one or the other with pds, achieving the best balance for both is more a compromise and tough. even there though, the spring used makes a significant difference.

    over all, To me pds, benefits are ground clearance , ease of removal, and works fine in many areas, but track like brutal work Linkage is better, and ktm has already fiqured this out.
    Last edited by spud786; 01-20-2020 at 08:45 AM.

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